July 7, 2011 Off

Tarihi Sultanahmet Koftecisi Selim usta (Istanbul: Sultanahmet)

//// By in 12: Istanbul

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IMG_1458Another good eat near the touristy area is this famous place called Tarihi Sultanahmet Koftecisi Selim usta that’s opened since the 1920s. Beware however, there’s a place few shops down that has very similar name, and we almost got fooled. Locates very close to Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque and Basilica Cistern, this is the perfect place to grab lunch after sightseeing. The menu is small as they specialized only in few things. I love the bottles of this sparkling water btw!

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There’s really only one thing to get here and it’s the famous grill meat ball (Izgara köfte). Love it! Juicy, perfectly spiced and great texture. They give you a basket of bread (very good) which you can eat the meat balls with. You can also put different types of chilies for topping.

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We also got a side order of white bean salad and flavor rice as well.

Perfect simple good lunch. We tried many Kofte at many other places later and none of them taste anywhere as good as this.

Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta
12 Divan Yolu
90 212 513 1438

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July 6, 2011 Off

Balikci Sabahattin (Istanbul: Sultanahmet)

//// By in 12: Istanbul

Balikci Sabahatin
Balikci SabahatinBalikci Sabahatin
The old town of Istanbul is very charming and atomspheric but it’s known to be a desert of good food because it’s very touristy. Tourist traps are everywhere so locals hardly cross over to dine here except for few places, one of which is Balikci Sabahatin, a seafood restaurant open since 1945. It’s situated in a cute red house with lots of tables at the outdoor patio. It’s very close to our first hotel so we went there for dinner on our first night at Istanbul.

Balikci SabahatinBalikci Sabahatin
They are known for fresh grill fish but they’re not cheap. So we aimed for the mezes (small plates) which they’re also known for. It was also my first time trying raki, the anise flavor alcohol drink. I didn’t like it at first but I grew to like it later. It does go well with meze.
Rice with mussels – very good! Flavorful, lots of cinnamon were used.

Balikci Sabahatin
Grill Squid –  Their grill squid is known to be the best in town and I think it’s right on. This is really amazing and we tried to order this at other places but it just not the same. Definitely one of the best dishes we had in the entire trip.

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Balikci SabahatinBalikci Sabahatin
Tomato and cucumber salad, refreshing. Apparently they make their own olive oil.
Chilies in olive oil – not very spicy.
Avocado with shrimp and mash fava beans, both are very tasty and went well with bread.

Everything was fresh and light tasting. We actually got very full from these meze so we definitely didn’t need main course (grill fish) at all. It’s better to go easy on the first night anyways.

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complimentary strawberries and fruit with pistachios (I forgot what the fruit was…). The strawberries were so sweet!

There’re lots of complain on the service on the internet about this place. The service was a little slow in general for us but it wasn’t that big of a deal. It was a great start for our trip!

Balikci Sabahattin
Cankurtaran Mh., Şehit Hasan Kuyu Sokak 1, Istanbul, Turkey
+90 212 458 1824

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July 6, 2011 Off

Turkish food Overview

//// By in 12: Istanbul, Travel

Prior to the trip I didn’t know much about Turkish food since there aren’t much Turkish restaurants here in Los Angeles. Due to the expansion of the Ottoman Empire in history, there are lots of culinary crossovers with the Balkins, Middle East and the Caucasus so a lot of the dishes and flavors tasted familiar. Basically Turkish food uses a lot of olives and olive oil, tomatos, eggplant, cucumber, cheese, lemons paprika, cumin, garlic..etc etc. Typcial dishes are Kebabs, grill fish and Meze (Mezze).

Turkish tea and coffee
Turkish Tea and coffee: Turkish drink a lot more tea than coffee surprisingly. I personally prefer the coffee, in fact we got quite addicted to them now.  Generally I found Turkish tea to be too bitter and overbrewed for my taste. Also they don’t serve Turkish coffee for breakfast, only tea.

IMG_1361Breakfast at Hotel
Standard Turkish Breakfast: Most of the hotels we stayed at had complimentary breakfast and they’re pretty much same. Olives, cheese, Tomato, cucumbers, yogurt and a wide range of jam and sweetener (like Honey and molasses). I like to add honey on the cheese and molasses for the yogurt. Hotel Sebnem, the first place we stayed at in Istanbul had the best selections and they gave us a jug of fresh juice every morning.

IMG_5232roasted chestnut
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Here are some of the most common street food we saw: Simit – a bagel-like circular bread with sesame seed, a popular breakfast to-go
Roasted chestnut and midye dolma – rice stuffed Mussels.

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Gözleme: a savory pastry that is sort of like quesadillas or crepe. The “skin” is flour and the “fillings” are usually feta cheese. There’re also varieties like mince meat, mushroom, egg…etc.

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Sweet: Lokum or known as Turkish delight in the west, was an Ottoman Empire invention from the 15th century. Unlike the rubbery ones you get at markets here, the ones over there are very soft and fresh. Best ones are traditional flavor with pistachios. Our favorite was from this historic shop called Haci Bekir, it’s opened since 1777.

Turkish Ice-cream
Turkish Ice-cream: it’s called Dondurma in Turkey. It’s originated from a town call Kahramanmaraş which we pass through when we were on our way to Mt Nemrut. They actually had a big restaurant there devoted to eat their ice-cream, with fork and knife! The texture is very different, it’s very stretchy and creamy. It’s very delicious with chopped pistachios and excellent to pair with a cup of Turkish coffee.

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Baklava : it seems like many countries claimed the origin of Baklava, and of course the Turks believes it was developed by the Ottoman Empire as well. At this historic sweet shop called Hafiz Mustafa Şekerlemeleri, there are many different types of Baklava to choose from. We randomly picked four and they taste pretty similar, it’s just the texture that’s different.

Honeycomb dessert
Came across this Honeycomb dessert at a middle of nowhere town up on the mountain when we were on our way to Mt Nemrut.

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Meze (Mezze): My favorite part of Turkish cuisine is  gotta be the meze, like Tapas in Spain, they’re small plates which go well with alcohol. We love to go have dinner at Meyhane, a wine bar type of restaurant/bar that serves alcohol with meze. The server would bring over a big tray of mezes for you to choose from. There are cold and hot ones and they all supposedly go well with each other.  You can eat them with bread or add them to the main course. I’ll write about the outstanding ones later.

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Kebabs (grill and roasted meat) are probably what first comes to mind to most people what Turkish food is. They’re slightly different from region to region. Such as the ones we had at Urfa have more chilis. Istanbul and the Aegean region have more seafood on the menu. There are a lot more grill fish places in Istanbul than central/southern Turkey.  We did get a bit sick of lamb and missed pork after awhile.

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Pottery Stew: a dish we see a lot in Cappadocia (central Turkey). It’s a veggie-based stew cooked in clay pot and you break it at the table when they serve it. It’s a tomato/eggplant/veggie flavor stew, kind of like Ratatouille.

Ottoman Lamb stew
Ottoman cuisine: a type of Turkish cuisine based on dishes developed from the royal kitchen of Topkapi Palace of the Ottoman Empire. Some ottoman cuisine restaurant claimed they use the actual recipes found in the palace. The dish in the picture is hunkar begendi, a lamb stew on top of eggplant puree wiht cheese. The lamb was incredibly tender and flavorful and I love the creamy eggplant puree.

This by no mean covers everything about Turkish cuisine. I’m sure we missed a lot of interesting dishes. Next I’ll blog about specific places that are outstanding and worth the trip for.

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June 28, 2011 1

2 weeks in Turkey (Part 2)

//// By in Travel

It was nice to take a break from the buzzling Istanbul and see the more rural side of Turkey.

Southeastern Turkey:
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Mt Nemrut: It was definitely worth waking up very early in the morning to climb to the top of a mountain to see scattered giant ancient stone heads against sunrise. The climb to the summit was quite intense and there was still a bit of snow there. The heads were larger than I expected (they’re taller than me). You can’t touch the heads anymore because too many people damage them, but they’re still quite impressive from a distance. Afterward we went to the Arsameia ruins which is also from the Commagene Kingdom. It was nice to hike in the nature and see the ruins right there in the open (instead of in a museum).

UrfaUrfa
Urfa: The birthplace of Prophet Abraham is a pilgrim destination. The vibe here is definitely very different, it felt more middle eastern here: more women wore hijab and men wore keffiyehs, and you see a lot more Arabic and Kurdish writing in signage. The cafe and restaurants in the city don’t serve alcohol. We met lots of friendly and curious locals. I was approached couple times by young women who wanted to take pictures with me. Lots of little kids followed us and kept saying “hello” and told us their names. We also had a bit of an adventure when we got lost in the labyrinth-like market.

Harran Beehive house
Harran: a city right next to the border of Turkey and Syria, you can literally see Syria in the distance while driving there. Harran means “hot” in Arabic and they mean it. Harran is also another pilgrim destination as it was mentioned in Genesis that Abraham and his family stayed there. It is known for these traditional mud brick “beehive” houses. They’re very cool inside due to the way they’re designed. The ones we visited were obivously constructed for us tourists but if you venture out to see the local villages, many people do live in these beehive houses.

Cappadocia:

Uchisar CastleLove ValleyGoreme open air museum
We had some of the most relax and enjoyable time at Cappadocia, a region in central Turkey. It’s filled with weird volcanic rock formations and strange moon-like landscape. A lot of the volcanic rocks were carved into cave churches and underground cities where people used to live and hide. Some of the caves have amazing well-preserved fresco paintings. We went on couple different hikes and small tours. The Uchisar rock castle (top pix) and the dark church at the Goreme open air museum (lower right pix) are not to be miss!

Hot air balloon rideHot air balloon ride
Besides hiking, hot air balloon ride are THE thing to do there. Unfortunately it was a cloudy day so the scenery wasn’t as dramatic, but it was still quite spectacular.

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Cave hotels: Some of the caves and rock formations were converted into boutique hotels, we stayed at this place call the Kelebek Cave Hotel and it was so cozy and wonderful. Some of the best time were spent in just chilling at the hotel to read a book and drink a glass of wine. We spent 3 days 4 nights there and wish we stayed longer. On the last morning we were to leave for Ephesus, the wind blew all the hot air balloons right on top of our hotel, it was quite a magical moment.

Ephesus:

Temple of ArtemisEphesus
EphesusEphesus: an ancient Greek/Roman city situated at the west coast of Turkey, is the ONE place where most tourists go to  (especially the big cruise ship crowd), hence it’s notorious for being extremely overcrowded. So we went there at 8:30 am as soon as it’s opened. We managed to beat the crowd and had the famous Library of Celsus all to ourselves for a little bit. The ruins were very stunning indeed. Don’t miss the Temple of Artemis too even though only one column is left, it’s indeed one of the 7 ancient wonders of the world.

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June 23, 2011 2

2 weeks in Turkey (Part 1)

//// By in Travel

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We spent two weeks in Turkey for our honeymoon last month, a trip I’ve been planning for quite some time. It’s interesting that when we told others about Turkey, the responses often were “cool! they have pretty nice beaches there right?” Yes yes, they have very nice beaches in Turkey but they’re less of a priority to us. Situated right in between Asia and Europe and being ruled by some of most powerful Empires in history, Turkey is extremely fascinating to us because of the incredible richness of history and culture that can be found there.

We spent about 6 days in Istanbul, 3 days in east-southern part of Turkey (Mt Nemrut, Urfa, Harran), 3 days in Cappadocia (central Turkey) and 1 day in Ephesus (West Turkey). It’s great to be able to see the different sides of Turkey.  Here are some of the highlights of our trip:

Istanbul:

AyasofyaMosaic
Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia) is truly truly breathtaking! My pictures couldn’t do it justice at all, you have to be there to see the grandness of it. Be sure to go there as soon as it’s open in the morning, or else you’ll be lining up for a long time because of nonstop stream of big tour groups.

Blue MosqueNew mosque
Mosques mosques mosques. There’re many mosques in Istanbul, more than you have time to visit. The first night when we first arrived at Istanbul, we heard an ethereal prayer call for the first time and followed the crowd to Blue Mosque, it was quite a magical experience. Blue Mosque is a must visit for sure, Sulemaniye Mosque and New Mosque are equally beautiful I think. There’re several “fusion style” mosque too, such as rococo style mosque that felt more Europeans.

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Ceiling to floor, wall to wall beautiful tiles in the Harem of Topkapi palace. We’ve never seen anything like this so we were quite dazzled.

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Grand Bazaar: it’s a super touristy, visual overload and mentally+physically draining experience, but we still had fun shopping/bargaining there. The key is to go late and be the last customer. A lot of the shop owners believe in the “last customer luck” (good luck next day if the last customer buy something). We got really good deal in two places because of that!

Rumeli Hisari
Ride the boat along the Bosphorus which zigzag between the European and Asian side. It’s cheap and scenic (note: ignore what all the guide books tell you, the outside of the lower deck is a way better place to sit than the upper deck.) We got off the boat at the 2nd to the last stop on the European side and then did a combo of bus and walking along the coastline to visit all the upscale Bosphorus neighbourhoods (including the amazing Rumeli Castle in the picture above). It was a rigorous walk but there are many cute cafes along the way to take breaks.

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And of course some of the best experiences in Istanbul is just stroll around the city, get lost in markets and backstreet roads, eating at Meyhane (Turkish “small plate” bars) and chilling out at cafes/bars. We stayed both at the old town (Sultanahmet) and the new town (Beyoglu) side of Istanbul. It’s easy to go to all the major sights in the old town but the new town is a much better area to stay at. All the good restaurants and night life is there and it felt like a real happening city where locals hang out and live. Our favorite area to hang out at is Asmalimescit and Tunel (where our apartment is at). And the Galata bridge is a dream location for photography student.

to be continue in part 2…

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