February 1, 2010 5

Jiufen (Outer Taiper)

//// By in 10: Taipei, Travel

JiufenJiufen
From Taipei’s city center, we took a 90 minute bus to an excursion to Jiufen, a picturesque old town situated up on the mountain facing the ocean. Jiufen used to be a gold mining town and was at its peak during the Japanese colonization era, hence there’re lots of Japanese colonial buildings left behind. It has became a forgotten town until Hou Hsiao-hsien‘s late 80s film City of Sadness was set there and people began to discover its nostalgic beauty. Ever since the town became more and more touristy, now it’s filled retro Chinese teahouses, eateries, tourisy shops and bed and breakfast. Most of them did not miss the opportunity to cash in from the nostalgia boom.

IMG_1632Jiufen Street Scene 1
The are many ways to navigate the town but the most obvious and easy way is through the “food street” where there’re lots of small eateries and shops. I actually like the food street very much even though it’s very touristy.

Jiufen street food
Octopus balls on stick

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Roasted Snail. Yes it’s kind of gross but at least you don’t need to fork it out like when you eat escargot at French restaurant. They took them out and then chopped them up for you. It was delicious

Jiufen street food
Jiufen street foodOf course there wouldn’t be a Taiwan food street without sausages. This stall has lots of different flavors. We got the 3 in one combo which is regular, squid ink and Wasbi. The regular flavor taste very similar to the ones you can get at Sinbala.

Jiufen street food

Tanghulu – a type of Northern China street snack where fruits are dipped in sugar syrup. Traditionally they use hawthorn but in Taiwan, strawberries and cherry tomatos seem to be the more popular choices.

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Grill Oyster mushroom

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Fried quail eggs. Very cute!

You can see more Jiufen pictures here.

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January 28, 2010 Off

Witch Cloud 巫雲 (Taipei: Shida)

//// By in 10: Taipei, Favorite Food Entries

Witch CloudFor dinner Jon’s friend took us to Witch Cloud, a very interesting Yunnan restaurant at the Shida/Taida area. It used to be a popular food stall in the Shida night market and it was relocated to the current bigger location 2 years ago. The owner Lao Wu was born in Burma and then grew up in Yunnan (or was it vice versa? I’m not sure), so the Yunnanese dishes has some Burmese influence. He’s also a huge music fan and owns over 40,000 Vinyls in his collection. The signage says “Yunan home cooking, spicy and sour,  LP music appreciation – rock jazz classical”.

Witch Cloud

Love the interior! Homey and personal, it gave you the feeling that you have stepped into the owner’s home. There were peace signs and other 60s-70s rock memorabilias all over.

I forgot to take picture but basically the entire wall behind me is filled with LPs and there’re more LPs in the back room too. I read that on some nights they’s DJs and they would take requests. One of the Creedence Clearwater Revival albums was playing while we were there, so the vibe felt extra hippie.

Witch Cloudwitch cloud

Menu is is even written on a record LP. Knowing that we would be eating very strong flavor and spicy food, getting beers was a wise decision.

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chilli sauce and Cold mix rice noodle which has chillis and vinegar. The chilli sauce was very spicy, but all the other dishes weren’t as spicy as I expected. I think the spicy level was adjusted for Taiwanese who aren’t used to spicy food.

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Pan fried Cabbage – the only non spicy dish. The “balance” dish of the night.

Scramble Tofu with Thousand year old egg – very very delicious. One of my favorites of the night.

witch cloud

A dish called “Huang Mun Chicken” (黃燜雞), or yellow simmer chicken. The chicken and potatos were fried in hot oil until golden and then simmered with sauce for a long time. It’s curry-like and was very hearty and flavorful. Another of my favorites.

witch cloud
Yunnan thin slick pork (雲南大薄片) – this is a signature Yunnan dish, I’ve had it at LA’s Yunnanese restaurant before and the meat was bacon-like. This one is much less oily and not as spicy. Very delicious.

witch cloud

Pan fried Yunnan pickles and meat (雲南醬瓜炒肉) – The strongest flavor dish of the night. So glad for the beer and I ended up eating two bowls of rice for the night for all the flavorful spicy food.

Witch CloudGreat food, good vibe and the space is full of character, Witch Cloud is a must go place that’s probably out of most western Travel guide’s radar. If Jon’s friend didn’t take us here I probably wouldn’t find out about it so I was really glad. Owner Lao Wu seems to be quite a character (Jon’s friend called him “The last hippie in  Taiwan”) and he seems like a fun and easy going person. There were portraits of him people have painted on the walls. Apparently it’s a popular hang out spot for music fans and other artistic types, who would hang out there for as long as they want like it’s their home.

Witch Cloud 巫雲
7, Alley 9, Ln 244, Roosevelt Rd Sec 3, Taipei City
台北市羅斯福路三段244巷9弄7號

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January 27, 2010 Off

Yueh Yiin Shiuan 玥飲軒 (Taipei: Shida)

//// By in 10: Taipei

We met up with Jon’s friend who took us to the cool Shida and Taida neighbourhood, which is the area surrounding the two Universities in the Da-an district of Taipei. There’s a nice college town/bohemian vibes to the area and it’s flourish with cheap eats, 2nd hand bookstores, cool cafes and live houses for local indie bands.

玥飲軒 Yueh Yiin Shiuan玥飲軒 Yueh Yiin Shiuan
We ended up in a teahouse called Yueh Yiin Shiuan. It’s easy to walk by since the exterior was covered by plants. As soon as we stepped inside we were transported to a beautiful Chinese antique room that’s both classic and modern.

玥飲軒 Yueh Yiin Shiuan
We got a booth table by the window. I love the lotus ceiling lamp and the table has an illuminated fish tank! You can see fish swimming inside.

玥飲軒 Yueh Yiin Shiuan
玥飲軒 Yueh Yiin Shiuan3 of us got a Oriental Beauty tea which is a Taiwanese blend of oolong tea. The tea was very good, crisp and refreshing. It smells wonderful and there’s a subtle sweet after taste. The amount they gave you last a very long time too. Each batch you put into the teapot can be brewed for 7-8 times each round, and there’re enough tea leaves for at least 3 rounds.

We got two tea snacks:
玥飲軒 Yueh Yiin Shiuan
Red date and walnut cake. I’m always fascinated by the edible paper wrapping since I was little.

玥飲軒 Yueh Yiin Shiuan
Green bean cake. Pretty!

We talked and sipped tea for more than 2 hours, what a wonderful way to spend the afternoon. It’s the kind of place you can spend your whole afternoon or evening at. They have elaborate set menus for lunch and dinner too, such as milk tea soup based hotpot which sound interesting.

Yueh Yiin Shiuan 玥飲軒
No. 80 Wenzhou street, Da-an district, Taipei

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January 25, 2010 3

Booday (Taipei: Zhongshan)

//// By in 10: Taipei, Favorite Food Entries

boodayWhen I was in Hong Kong back in October I saw these really cute independent zines called Booday and I selected one for purchase. I ended up regretting not getting more issues because it has a wonderful but simplistic aesthetics – illustrations and photography that feels natural  (see sample pages here). Each issue explores a different theme, most of them related to LOHAS . It makes you want to appreciate all the little things around you and live a “slow” life.

Upon researching I realized Booday not only publish zine, they also design clothing, bags, and there’s also a cafe in Taipei! So I was very looking forward to visit Booday.  It’s actually  just 10 minutes walk from our hotel in Zhongshan, located at an area I like a lot. 1st floor is retail that sells their products, 2nd floor is a cafe and the 3rd floor is their design studio. What an ideal set up!

booday
The 2nd floor cafe is a lovely space, love the mismatch furnitures. There’s a shelf of interesting books and magazine to read.  The big window faces the park with lots of trees so it’s a pretty view. Their menu (written on the chalk board) was not the run-of-the-mill type that’s typical of the Cafes in Taiwan. It changes every day. Their lunch/dinner dishes seems good too (ex: beer beef stew) but we didn’t have the chance to try it.

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Chocolate mint tea and good cappuccino

booday
Homemade cheesecake with Blueberry – surprisingly good!

booday
Homemade strawberry tart – the lime zest was a nice touch.

Good drinks and dessert, cozy space with relax vibe, we stayed and read for more than a hour there. If we didn’t have to meet up with a friend we probably would have stay longer. I love their designs in the retail space on the first floor too. Of course I bought back all the old issues  they still carried.

Booday
No.18-1, Lane 25, Nanjing W. Rd., Taipei City 103, Taiwan

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January 25, 2010 1

Hizenya (Taipei: Zhongshan)

//// By in 10: Taipei

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There’s an extremely popular Japanese restaurant called Hizenya near our hotel that specializes in Unagi rice bowl. Apparently Taiwan is one of the biggest Unagi exports for Japan and this place is famous for fresh and quality freshwater eels. It’s very cheap too (about $4-6 a bowl, depends on the size), perhaps that’s why it’s so crowded. We waited in queue for 20 minutes or more and there’re tons more people behind us.

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Unagi rice bowl – The Unagi was pretty damn good. The fish was meaty and the sauce was good.

Overal It was good but not sure it’s 30 minute waiting good. However no doubt it was a satisfying and value meal.

Hizenya 肥前屋
13, Lane 121, Zhongshan North Rd. Section 1, Taipei City

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