October 30, 2008 2

Chez Panisse Cafe (Berkeley: Gourmet Ghetto)

//// By in 04: SF+Bay Area, Favorite Food Entries

On the way back to LA from our short getaway to Napa, we stopped by Berkeley to check out Alice Water‘s famous restaurant/cafe Chez Panisse for lunch. As some of you might know, Alice Waters is one of the most influential American chefs in the US in the 70s and Chez Panisse has the reputation of being the birthplace of “California cuisine” —  fusion cooking that uses fresh locally grown ingredients.

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The restaurant is inside a cute wood craftsman bungalow. Downstairs is the restaurant which only open for dinner while upstair is the cheaper and more causal cafe. Their menu changes daily, the cafe menu offers a daily 3 courses for $35. Freda got the daily prix-fixe while I ordered a la carte. The menu looked interesting, it’s mainly comprise of hearty rustic French and Italian dishes.

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I got the Cannard Farm Rocket and Figs with Persimmons and Pomegranate $10. It must be fig season as I see figs everywhere. Freda’s prix-frix: Garden Lettuce Salad. Both were fresh and seasoned nicely, delicious.

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My entree: Liberty Farm Duck Leg Confit with shell beans, Pimientos, and Rosemary $20. Very good! The meat was tender and fresh. The shell bean sides were really delicious too, multi-flavor in every bites. Everything taste fresh. Hearty and satisfying.

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Baked Farro Pasta with Chanterelle Mushrooms, leeks, and Thyme How can a simple baked pasta be this good! The pasta (made of Farro) has a nice nutty, grainy texture. The sauce is creamy but light like broth. The mushroom soaked up the flavors, it’s absolutely wonderful.

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Concord Grape Sherbet with Moscato d’Asti and Langues de chat. Refreshing! Interesting plating though.

My boyfriend had dinner at the restaurant side before and he said it was amazing. Hopefully I’ll have the chance to try it someday in the future.

Chez Panisse cafe
1517 Shattuck Ave, Berkeley, CA 94709
(510) 548-5049

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October 24, 2008 6

Cyrus (Sonoma: Healdsburg)

//// By in 04: SF+Bay Area, Favorite Food Entries

Even though we missed French Laundry, we wouldn’t want to skip the chance to have an epic gourmet meal at the wine country either. So we booked roughly one month ahead for a table at Cyrus instead. Based on the review I read it’s hailed as the next best thing after French Laundry (some even says it’s just as good). Michelin gave it 2 stars. But what really convinced us was their menu: it sounds interesting and innovative. I like that they offer different price ranges for course menu (3 for $78, 4 for $90, 5 for $102). The Chef’s 8 courses tasting menu is $130.

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Cyrus is located at Healdsburg in Sonoma County (about 45 mins drive from Napa Valley). The dining room is sophisticated and luxurious in a homey way. The vibe was relax and non-stuffy.

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As soon as we sat down, a cart with champagne and caviar rolled by. We told the server we’re not interested and they immediately brought over a Canapés with three-tier of complimentary goodies to excite our taste buds. The most memorable one was Beer Bubble (the golden bubbles on the spoons in left pix), it has a thin gel cover and the beer liquid burst into your mouth. I love the Grapes with Candied ginger (2nd pix) a lot too.

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A waiter carried a big basket full of freshly baked homemade bread throughout the night and you can get as many as you like. The bread were fantastic! Our favorite ones were the Olive Bread, Bacon and Garlic Bread, Rosemary Sourdough and Brioche. They need to open a bakery like Bouchon! The Goat Milk Butter and French Butter were nice too.

I got the 8 course Chef’s tasting menu while Freda got 8 courses from their regular menu. We didn’t do wine pairing because we’re weak drinker, so we did the half and half pairing with a glass of both white and red.

Amuse Bouche + 1st Course:
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Amuse Bouche: Tomato Gelee with Heirloom Tomato (so grape-like sweet!)
Joan: Spot Prawn Sashimi with Melon and Pickled Napa Cabbage.
I was surprised at how well the prawn taste with melon. A refreshing dish.
Freda: Thai Marinated Lobster with Avocado, melon and Hearts of Palm

2nd Course:
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Joan: Tagliarini with Sugar Pie Pumpkin Coulis and Acorn Ham, Egg Yolk
This is one of my most favorites of the night. It’s kind of hard to describe what it taste like as there were many strong flavors working together. Very interesting dish.

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Freda: Seared Foie Gras with Peaches, crispy Soba Noodles and Cashews.
Heavenly, perfectly seasoned Foie Gras! The cashews cream (dots on the plate) was a little too dominating and peanut-buttery but they can be ignored. I didn’t care much for the crispy soba noodle (bottom layer) either, they are too cripsy, oily and felt like a separate component with the silky smooth Foie Gras. They kept me chewing for a long time after I finished everything else.

3rd Course:
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Joan: Tairagai with Matsutake
A Japanese tasting dish. A good “palate cleansing” after my last intense dish.

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Freda: Dover Sole with Sweet Corn and Tomato Fondue, Lemon Verbena Nage
By this time I see the pattern: my dishes (=their regular menu) tend to be more hearty than Joan’s. The fish was cooked perfectly, very tender and moist. The thick sweet corn sauce contrast very well with the flavorful Tomato. The strong flavors compliment well with the delicate fish, very good!

4th Course:
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Joan: Duck Breast with Smoked Hen of the Woods, Potato Hash
Really good! I’m glad to see this classic French fare among the fusion-heavy tasting menu as it always make me happy. The duck breast was perfectly medium rare, the seared foie gras was great and I loved the sauce.

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Freda: Crispy Poussin with Roasted Corn Stuffing and Nardello Peppers
Knowing my aversion to chicken in restaurant, I still enjoyed this dish. Though I couldn’t help staring at Joan’s duck with envy.

5th Course:
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Joan: Wagyu Beef with Kombu and Cherry Tomatoes, Ponzu
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Side: Rice cake
Another Japanese fusion dish, and definitely another highlight of the night. It’s absolutely amazing! The meat just melt in your mouth. I’m so-so with the rice cake though. A very satisfying dish nonetheless.

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Freda: Lamb Loin with Cranberry Beans, Vin Santo Sauce
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Side: Cippolini Onions
The lamb is no Wagyu Beef but it’s still delicious. The onion was unbelievably sweet like a grape.

6th Course:
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Cheese cart with 15 different types of artisan and farmhouse cheeses came by for the Cheese course. The server would ask your preferences. We told him we prefer rich/stinky soft cheeses for Freda and hard ones for me.

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And viola here’re his selections for us. I wish I wrote down the names though. They’re accompanied with nuts, fresh figs, homemade fruit cakes and honey comb. We were pretty full by then, but we end up clearing the entire plate because they were so good. The soft cheese were better~

7th Course:
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We both got the Strawberry Verjus Soup with Yuzu Partfait, citrusy and refreshing. Coffee was good.

8th Course:
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Joan: Lemon Huckleberry Souffle with Frozen White Chocolate Truffle.
Light and creamy, a little overshadowed by the intense flavors of the previous dessert.

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Freda: Chocolate Ganache Bar, Milk Chocolate Sorbet, Raspberry Tuile.
In the end I get a ‘heavier’ dessert as well. Amazingly rich chocolate flavors and not sweet. The varieties satisfied a chocolate lover in every way.

Final Treat:
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Mignardises. A candy cart is wheeled out and we picked our candies. The popsicle flavor was basil. We also got a box of brownie (not in photo) to take home. We left very full, satisfied and happy.

The service was absolutely impeccable. It seemed like they have an army of waiters. We were served by different people in every course. There was a big table at the back where 10-12 waiters with plates would march inside in a single line, it was quite a sight.

Since we stayed at Calistoga (where the wedding was) which was in Napa Valley, it took us a 45 minutes drive on a windy, hilly and dark forest road to get to Healdsburg. The return trip was frightening because the road was complete pitch black (and they’re not generous with signs). The driving experience reminded me of a particular Fellini’s short film (or a certain North by Northwest sequence) which was not dissimilar from my re-occuring nightmares. I’m really glad the meal was worth all these trouble. I think $130 for the 8 course tasting menu was definitely worth it. I like to go back to Cyrus as their menu changes based on seasons. Next time I could just get the 3 or 5 courses and I would definitely stay closer to Healdsburg.

The Japanese fusion modern French menu reminds me of Sona, but I prefer Cyrus overall, not to mention they are bigger in portion.

Cyrus Restaurant (707) 433-3311
29 North St Healdsburg, CA 95448

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October 20, 2008 7

Bouchon Bakery (Napa Valley: Yountville)

//// By in 04: SF+Bay Area

Freda and I went up to Napa Valley for a wedding last weekend. Of course we took the opportunity to have as many amazing food and wine we can given the limited time we had. As soon as we got off the plane we drove for 1 hr and 40 mins to Yountville, the gourmet town of Napa Valley that housed three Thomas Keller establishments, including the famous French Laundry.

Time was tight for us because we had a reservation for a wine tasting tour in a hour, so we went to Bouchon Bakery for quick eat.

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Bouchon Bakery is part of Bouchon Bistro and is located just right next door. Delicious bread and pastries at sight as soon as you walk in, I felt like I’ve transported to Paris.

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Pain au Raisin – Croissant dough with vanilla pastry cream, sugar, spices, and raisins scented with Meyer’s rum. Very very good, it was our favorite of the bunch. The croissant had great texture, crispy on the outside and soft in the inside. Love the vanilla cream. The Cranberry roll and coffee macaron were also great.

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Chocolate Eclairs – Chocolate flavored crème patissière fill a shell baked of pâte a choux, a crème puff pastry dough. The chocolate cream were sublimed: light, not sweet but rich in cocoa flavor. Every bite was like a count down to the sorrow feeling you would feel after it’s finished. Since the chocolate cream was so amazing, we really regretted for not getting the chocolate tart!

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For the long drive in between destinations (Napa is big and so spread out!), we got a loaf of the Herb Roasted Olive bread – mixture of olives and herbs are folded into our Pain de Campagne, a crusty, dense loaf with a mild sour flavor. It smells wonderful and you can’t go wrong with olive breads.

There’s a Bouchon bakery in Las Vegas (link to my old post) and one in New York, now they just need to open one in Los Angeles!

By the way we tried to make reservation at French Laundry two months prior (the only way to get a table), but we were one day too late and could only get on the waiting list. However, few days before our trip, French Laundry called and said they had a table for us at lunch time. Fearing we might not make it there on time, we declined the offer. To be honest their price ($230 per person, ouch…) was another major reason to make that decision.

Bouchon Bakery
6528 Washington Street, Yountville, California 94599

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October 19, 2008 3

Raku (Little Tokyo)

//// By in 06: Downtown LA

IMG_4182Stunned and sad, I found out (too late) that the Little Tokyo’s Japanese-French restaurant Grill Lyon had closed down. The space was replaced by a Korean Japanese izakaya chain called Raku (the original is at Westside). The interior is slick and aimed for trendy crowd…ironically that is how izakaya is known as in LA now.

The menu is a unique blend of Korean + tradition Japanese + California fusion.
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Monk Fish Liver. Big thick pieces. Prosciutto wrapped Vegetable Rolls with balsamic vinegar.

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Simmered Pork: not as good as Sasaya’s (the meat is a bit dry and flavor not cooked in). My favorite of the night: Cripsy Shrimp with Zucchini.

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We waited for a long time for this Okonomiyaki. Turns out it’s very good: easy to eat, crunchy (cabbages), pillowy like scramble egg…good to stuff stomach with it at the end of the meal. Dessert is Green Tea Pudding.

Nothing particularly stands out enough to call this place a favorite, but it’s a pretty nice addition to the area.

Raku
11678 W Olympic Blvd Los Angeles, CA 90064

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October 19, 2008 6

Gloria’s Cafe (Culver City)

//// By in 13: Culver City

Gloria Cafe may look like a bar from the outside with its neon sign and dark interior, but it’s actually a Salvadorian/Mexican restaurant operate by friendly owner Gloria and her family. There’s a sign saids Pupusa outside highlighting their specialty. The rest of the menu offers a variety of meat and seafood dishes. A table of two can only order so much.

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Fresh Sangria! The Guacamole has a lot of garlic flavor, very nice~

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Tortilla Soup: this is the cup size but it’s still very big. It is a clear, flavorable vegetable soup topped with avocado, cheese and strips of tortillas chips. Amazing! It’s one of the best I’ve had so far in LA. Pupusa: it is stuffed corn-tortilla. We got the Loroco Cheese & Herb and Revuelta Pork & Cheese stuffings. Have to admit i’m not too crazy about the corn texture. It’s thick and heavy.

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Carne Adobada: tender carnitas topped with adobada sauce. Tasty sauce, though the pork isn’t that flavored.

I’d probably enjoyed the Garlic Shrimp more. The vibe is very happy and warm, and the staff was so helpful. I’ll like to come back to try their other stuffs.

Gloria’s Cafe
10227 Venice Blvd, Los Angeles 90034

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