November 7, 2007 3

Our Paris trip round up

//// By in Travel

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There’re too many things to love about Paris, i.e. choosing from prix fixe menus, lining up for fresh bread in boulangerie, riding the metro and walking to everywhere, getting lost and overwhelmed by museums, relaxing in beautiful public spaces and parks, taking the splendrous cityscape for granted, strolling in historic neighborhoods that are rich with history and culture, and the feeling that people simply enjoy life and living well…in style, effortlessly.

DSCN0776.jpgEating:
You always hear about how expensive Paris is, but it doesn’t really cost a fortune to eat an amazing meal. In fact it’s way more valued than LA in general with the quality and quantity you get from a Prix Fixe menu.

As for the extravagant formal gastronomical restaurants, I’d recommend to at least try their more affordable lunch prix-fix menu once, such as La Table de Joel Robuchon and Taillevent. The dress code is not as formal for lunch as well.

If you don’t want to break the bank for good food, there’re plenty of Bistronomy places as they called it. Causal inexpensive (bistro) + gourmet fine dining (gastronomy) that offers amazing fine dining quality 3 courses for 18-30 euro. Most of the places we blogged about fall into this category, such as Au Fil des Saisons and La Muse Vin.

Even though good food is everywhere, there’re plenty of tourist traps and mediocre places in Paris too. Absolutely DO NOT go into any of the restaurants that’re on Rue de la Huchette, Rue Xavier Privas and Rue st Severin in Latin Quarter. Basically just avoid eating around in that area. It’s always good to do research ahead and avoid walking into random places even they might appear authentic or charming. These are some of my sources:

Book:
– Pudlo Paris (Pudlo is a French food critic, English edition, good for addresses and opening time)
– Paris Miam Miam (recommendation from Paris locals, focus more on bistros and local eateries, text in both French and Japanese only)

Blog:
– Chez Christine
– Luxeat (she’s a model and she eats!)
– Etienne Marcel
– David Lebovitz
– Gridskipper Paris
– Chowhound

Many formal restaurants require reservations and confirmations. I got my friend who can speak French to call for me in LA, but you can also talk to them in English. It’s good to reserve at least 2 weeks prior for those famous Michelin stars rated restaurants. For many “bistronomy” places I could get a table walking in without reservations just fine. I would also walk into bistros during day time and ask for available table that night. Here’s a good website that let you make reservations online (but note: a lot of good smaller places aren’t listed:
– http://www.bestrestaurantsparis.com/en/liste.html

Most restaurants open for dinner at 7:00 pm or 8:00 pm so don’t show up too early. And lots of restaurants and shops don’t open on Sunday. Make sure you plan ahead and find ones that open. Service charge are included in the bill already, you pay exactly what it says on the menu so you don’t really have to put tips. But if you really like the service then you can put extra coins on the table, which we did on few occasions.
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November 6, 2007 2

La Muse Vin (Paris: Bastille)

//// By in 01: Paris, Favorite Food Entries

This is our final restaurant entry on Paris. I skipped a few lackluster meals. In looking back we dined a lot at Bastille.

DSC06007.jpgLa Muse Vin is a bistro + wine bar that specialize in “natural wine”. Obviously their wine is the highlight but they also offer innovative fusion “bistronomy” 3 courses menu for 30 euro. Lunch is even more affordable, only 10 euro and wine is included. I like the vibe a lot, it’s causal and friendly. Our server was the most chatty and lively person we’d encountered in Paris. The later in the night the more crowded it gets. There’re still plenty of customers coming in at their supposed closing time 11:00 pm.

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Wine bottles filled shelves cover all the walls. It’s definitely a great place for wine lover. There’s no wine list as one of the owners is “the list.”

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He picked a glass of white and a glass of red for us based on what we ordered. Both are amazingly good. Esp. the red which is a mix of syrah and grenache. It smells wonderful! Even after we finished the glass the scent lingered.

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Freda’s 1st course: Foie Gras Pumpkin Soup. Simply divine~ You can’t go wrong with this combination.

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Freda’s 2nd course: Salmon sashimi with the curry sauce, pomelos foam, artichoke. Very fusion dish. The raw salmon is very fresh and good quality, the sauce is a very interesting mix of a ginger-y spice flavor and the almost wasabi-ish horseradish.

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Freda’s 3rd: Dessert de Gasby. A coffee cream dessert, so smooth, very good~~

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My 1st course: Pan fry shellfish with bacon. The shellfish is good and I like the sauce, but I think the bacon is kind of unncessary.

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my 2nd: Poultry with the tartar of Algaem (a type of seaweed), Jerusalem Artichokes and clams. This sounded like a “creative disaster” but no, it actually worked! Who would have thought chicken and seaweed go well together. The fried thing is the chicken skin. There’re lots of flavors on the plate and they go well together. The chicken is tender and actually has “chicken flavor”! (i.e. Most of the overtly genetic enhanced chicken in the US are just plain flavorless.)

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Mousse of Petit Suisse with red fruits. Very fresh and light tasting. Love it!

La Muse Vin (Tel.: 01 40 09 93 05)
101, rue Charonne, 75011 Paris

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November 2, 2007 6

Pierre Hermé (Paris: St.Germain)

//// By in 01: Paris, Favorite Food Entries

Almost toward the end of our Paris food blogging (we skipped a few report on lackluster dinners). Yes of course there’d be macarons from the much hyped star pastry chef Pierre Hermé. After he left Fauchon, he setup his flagship in Tokyo in 1998 and returned to setup his Paris shop at St. Germain in 2001.

I had these in my bag all day so they looked very damaged.
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Macarons. We tried everything they have. The front middle metallic sheen surface brown one is Matcha with red beans, which taste more like a Japanese cake…not my fav. The white one is White Truffle, very rich and almost suffocating truffle flavor. I like the Rose and Passion Fruits with Chocolate Au Lait.

The downside of Paris’s Patisserie is that most are for take-out. Very inconvenient for us visitors. Our cakes suffered casualties while we were looking for a sit-down place, so the cakes in the photographs are a bit sloppy looking. ^^;;

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Ispahan: rose petal cream, lychee and raspberry enfolded in rose flavor macaron. I’m sure many have written about it already. I wasn’t a fan of berries dessert but the staff in the shop highly recommend it. Thank goodness I listened to them. The combination of rose petal cream and lychee is absolutely divine! The rose macaron gave the texture and raspberries for a touch of sourness.

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A sadly mangled Carré Blanc (for how it should look, click here). Pear marmalade of pears and bilberries, creams mascarpone with maple syrup with Almond glazed biscuit. The lovely exterior slight chewy but smooth texture is hard to describe. The pear and mascarpone taste so fresh and sweetness is perfectly hinted.

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Around the corner from Pierre Herme’s shop is Cafe de la Mairie, facing a pretty view of the St. Suplice. I read from blogs that this is the ‘unofficial’ Pierre Herme cafe, where the waiters turn a blind eye when you take out the cakes. We did just that (ordered coffee of course).

Pierre Hermé
72 rue Bonaparte, Paris 75006 France

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November 2, 2007 4

Le Baratin (Paris: Belleville)

//// By in 01: Paris, Favorite Food Entries

We went to lunch at Le Baratin, so that we can also see Belleville, a historically working-class + immigrant + multi-ethnic neighborhood. It’s very sleepy during the day, as it’s more of a nightlife area.

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Le Baratin is a very homely feel bistro + winebar. It has a good selection of organic wine (very good). 3 course for 15 euro. The Argentinian chef Raquel changes the menu daily. The food are classic bistro with a touch of fusion.

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1st course: my Calf’s Tongue Terrain and Joan’s
Eggplant and Bellpeppers. (I’ve been eating way too much calf’s heads this trip)

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My main course Curry Lamb shank is an absolute delight in taste and aroma. The lamb are cooked very tender and juicy and deep with flavor. The Moroccan (?) curry spice isn’t overwhelming, just enough to compliment the flavor, espeically with the green onion. I enjoyed every single bite and wipe the plate clean with breads.

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Joan’s main course Stuffed Cabbage Roll. The cabbage roll was juicy and soft. The sauce is flavorful and light. The dessert Flan is a bit predictable and simple, but still good~

Not fancy, but the food are cooked with very good and fresh ingredients. The taste is simple but very delicious. This place is said to be a favorite eatery of many Paris’s chefs, in fact I read about this place from the madame owner of a certain Michelin 2-star high end restaurant. I’ve read that Le Baratin’s chef specialized in a Crispy Pork which wasn’t on the menu on the day we went, so keep your eye open for it if you go.

Le Baratin
3 rue Jouye-Rouve, 20th Arrondissement

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October 30, 2007 3

La Ravigote (Paris: Bastille)

//// By in 01: Paris, Favorite Food Entries

Again we read about this restaurant from this book that it specialized in Ravigote sauce. From wiki: Ravigote is a classic French sauce that’s based on Velouté sauce cut with white wine vinegar, with dijon mustard, finely chopped, sautéed shallots/onions, capers and herbs. Our mouth watered just from reading about it. They served it with calf’s head here.

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The restaurant is hidden in midst of a residential area. We got there before their opening time, but the cool owner let us in.

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Sweet wine before meal, and very good bread (or I should say, there’s no bad bread in Paris).

3 courses for 18 Euro (we skipped desserts because we got too full).
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My first: very good Terrine Vignerone. I panicked a bit at how big portion it is, because I knew I’ll finish it and stuff my stomach before the main course.

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Here it is: Tête de Veau (Calf’s Head) Ravigote. Oh my goodness it’s incredibly delicious! The lightly acidic sauce taste rather complex, though it’s dominant by shallot’s flavor. The finely chopped herbs + wine vinegar combination reminded me slightly of those chopped pickled green condiment that goes with the Taiwanese beef noodle, but much richer and heavier.

Joan’s pick, just for variety of photos.
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Hareng Pomme a l’huile (Herring with Potatoes) and Civet de Biche (Doe Stew). When the owner translate the menu for us he couldn’t remember the English word for deer and said “Bambi!” instead. It’s very hearty and well done but it paled in comparison to the Ravigote. Should have just get their signature dish.

The owner has a no smiling stern face but he’s very humorous. The funny signs and figurines all over the interior reflected his cool and funny personality.

No matter how many fine gourmet I’ve had during the trip, the one thing that lingers on my mind is the taste of this Ravigote sauce. I keep thinking about it for the rest of the trip. There’s just something so satisfying about it.

La Ravigote
41, Rue de Montreuil, 75011 Paris

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